ISRAELI   Vacation

03-May-2017   thru   19-May-2017

 

 

AirBnB - Rehovot
This was a great BnB! The wonderful owners (Sharona and Gabi) lived upstairs.
I had all of the downstairs: 2-bedrooms, fully stocked kitchen, bath (great hot water) and...
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... a HUGE patio for having morning coffee and fresh-picked fruits from those very trees.
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Tel Aviv - Isrotel Tower
[Left] After a week of being a bachelor, Joan joined me and we moved to the round Isrotel Tower in Tel Aviv.
We eventually got a room high enough as to not be looking right into the U.S. Embassy (foreground, left).
[Right] It also had a nice view looking north towards the Dan Hotel and the beach. (my very first selfie-stick shot)
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This is the famous U.S. Embassy in Tel Aviv that's being moved to Jerusalem... maybe.
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I'm not sure if they are also gonna move that I.C.B.M. Silo.
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Ahhhhhhh. Vacation! Hotel's rooftop pool. Hardly anybody EVER there!
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Dusk, from our balcony.
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Looking out to sea. [The building to the right is the hotel we "used" to use... Orchid Park Plaza.
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Tel Aviv - The Port
The old Tel Aviv port with its warehouse spaces and waterfront has been "re-purposed".
It's now a modern dining and activities venue for the whole family.
(Sa'ar and Monica)
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The whole place is covered with a massive boardwalk.
(Joan, Monica & Natalie)
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Shabbat Dinner
This year, Shabbat Dinner fell upon the shoulders of Monica.
She could not have created a more beautiful setting.
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The matriarch and Edna's mother (Mamanina)

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Grandma Edna and sister Rina (Head Chef)
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Sa'ar's father Saba Itzik.
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Sa'ar's mother Safta Hanna.
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Sa'ar
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Sa'ar and Monica
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Natalie
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The Reason for Being
Yahel, 10-yoAviah, 7-yo
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Ayana, 5-yoTaya, 10-mos.
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A little floor gymnastics with Ayana and Taya
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Honeypie!
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Presents Time
Regardless of one's direction of travel (from US to Israel OR Israel to US), there's always an extra suitcare needed.
It's used to either bring presents TO Israel, or stock up on things less expensive when bought in the US.
We then pack a suitcase inside of our now-empty suitcase for the trip home.
While we were in-country, it also just so happened to be Yahel's birthday.
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Still, nobody got left out. No Way!
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What I was told was the "face" of every good selfie.
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More playtime.
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Two Naturals.
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I think Aviah took this picture.
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Saba Rick and quiet time.
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Rishon le Zion
Monica is a department manager at the IKEA in her hometown of Rishon le Zion. So, we all went there one day to meet and greet.
It looks and feels exactly like an IKEA in the States. If you didn't know better, you'd swear you were IN the States.
That is, except the prices are in NIS (New Israeli Shekel). Even the products are the same with the same product names!
"Our SOCKERKAKA bakeware series is designed for one thing – to add a bit of creativity to your kitchen. The fun-shaped molds..."
I think the line could use a different name... especially if you're gonna COOK with it. (Yuck!)
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One day while being taxied from Rishon le Zion and Tel Aviv, we passed (at high speed) a delivery truck
that had been "wrapped" with Three Olives (vodka) advertising. Joan wanted to have our driver slow down (right, like THAT'S ever gonna happen.)
so she could get a picture of it to pass along to the Three Olives rep in St Louis. But, alas, the truck was long gone.
We never did see the truck again, but we DID go into a liquor store and spied these (even in the "new" bottles):
NIS-119 = US$33.61

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Jerusalem - Mt Scopus
The last three days of our vacation, we scheduled to spend in and around Jerusalem. On some previous trips, we've taken
day trips from Tel Aviv. And, we've stayed in the New City (Western). But, we've never toured around East Jerusalem and Joan
had never been out to the Dead Sea. So, we checked into the Ritz (now the Dan Jerusalem) on Mt Scopus.
It is a beautiful hotel with absolutely NOTHING to do around it.
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Joan had been tasked to see if she could find a wooden crèche for her sister.
Fortunately, there was a gift shop right outside the hotel's front door. They had lots!

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Unfortunately (for the sister), although beautiful, the crèche cost more than our room! No Way, José!
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Jerusalem - Old City
So, we went for a walkabout instead. This is Damascus Gate.
I think it's the prettiest of the gates and it's the one most used to get into the Muslim Quarters of the Old City.
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Once inside the city, looking back at Damascus Gate.
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Arab bakery inside the souq (market). The honey balls on the left are fantastic! Very light. Very sweet!
The same delicious honey balls can be found in the Chrisitan Quarters bakeries AND the Jewish Quarters bakeries.

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The Via Dolorosa. ("Way of Sorrow")
This is the route currently celebrated as that taken by Jesus from condemnation to burial.

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not sure - could very well be misplaced

The Ecce Homo Arch
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The reason I like the following picture so much is because it shows that:
1) We came from the Damascus Gate, and are now headed towards
2) The Temple Mount (think Solomon's Temple, the Ark of the Covenant, Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa Mosque)
3) The Western Wall (think Wailing Wall)
4) The Church of the Holy Sepulchre (think Calvary Hill, Golgotha, burial cave and the Tomb of Joseph of Arimathea
The three holiest sites in Jerusalem, of the three largest western religions, each a stones-throw from the other.
I find that amazing!

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Almost since its 4th century construction by Helena (mother of Emperor Constintine),
the Edicule inside the Church of the Holy Sepulcher has been in need of repairs.
It has been being held together by steel I-beams and shims of wood blocking since the 1940's.
The needed repairs were identified over 200 years but disputes among religious orders prevented them from being made.
'Till now. After 9-months (and US$3-million) renovations have been completed. It's never looked better.

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I could use a little help, if you know what this is. I think it's from the Jewish Quarters. Then again, maybe not.

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Here we go again. I think this is looking at Mt Scopus and the HUC in the background. But, I'm not sure.

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These I KNOW! We got back to our hotel with no plans for dinner and there's NOTHING around the hotel (remember?).
We asked at the front desk and after hearing of all the wonderful falaful places, we got them to understand that we needed something a bit nicer.
So, they suggested the Wine & Cheese Bar (and restaurant) on top of the Notra Dame Hotel... across from the Old City's New Gate.
It was just what we needed. Wonderful dinner. Not great service. Incredible view of the Old City (breathtaking for sure).

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View from our table!
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[NOTE: As we found out later, the whole place is owned by the Vatican. In hindsight, that might explain all the clergy milling about.]
Massada
For our second-to-last-day in-country, we had pre-booked a private guide for a Dead Sea tour.
There were some specific sites we wanted to see that typically would not be on a standard tour.
So we contracted with Smuel from ToursByLocals and he took care of everything, including picking us up at our hotel, bright and early.
Since it was going to get hot (35°C/95°F), we headed first to Masada.

There are two ways to get to the top of Masada. We chose NOT to walk and took the gondola instead.

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It was so hot already, they stopped allowing people to walk UP the snake path. They were, however, "permitted" to walk DOWN.

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Once on top, it was difficult to miss all the little rectangles below surrounding Masada.
These turned out to be excavations of Roman camps from the 72-73CE
siege of Masada that was one of the final events in the First Jewish–Roman War.

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From the top of the mesa of Masada, looking north and east shows how rugged the terrain is.
To the north is desert. But unlike what we usually think of a desert, there are no sand dunes. This is all hard, solid rock!
To the east is the Dead Sea and the mountains of Jordan past that. [more on the Dead Sea later]

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A detailed metal casting shows the findings of previous excavations of Masada's plateau.
Most of these excavations have been carried out on the northern third of the hilltop (being shown in this picture).
In the foreground they show the western face and the "ramp" built by the Romans to reach the hilltop.

A Note Regarding Dimensions
Eastern Cliffs: 400m/1300'
Western Cliffs: 90m/300'
Top is Diamond-Shaped: 550m/1800' x 270m/890'
Topped by a double stone wall, all the way around, that measures 1300m/4300' long
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This picture shows a man-made channel, cut into the western face,
used to trap water as it ran off during the rainy winter months.
Just off-camera to the right is a hole cut into the wall leading to a
HUGE cistern (the size of my house). This is but one of the 12 cisterns.
All total, the cisterns could hold 40,000-cubic-meters, or 10,000,000 gallons
(enough water to supply 1,000 people for 10 years).




And this picture shows Shmuel and Rick standing about
in what may have been somebody's livingroom... 1,943 years ago.
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Here we see a section of the 4300' double-wall that runs all along the perimeter of the mesa.
In the background-right, we can see people walking to an area that would mark about half-way to the southern point of the mesa.

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The next two pictures show mosaic floors from two different periods: Herodian and Byzantine.

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Well, it's a bathtub. There's actually two of them. Maybe ritual baths (mikvahs)
NOTE about that Black Line: Masada is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. As such, it must indicate
to the public, that which was found during excavations and that which was added for stability or aesthetics.
The painted Black Line indicates the border between the two: below=found in place, above=added.

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This is King Herod's Receiving Room in his Administration Building (model in foreground left). Again, with the Black Line.
We didn't realize that when walking through ancient ruins, sometimes what you see is NOT what the inhabitants saw.
In a modern building, we don't see the studs and joists since they are (usually) covered by plaster or drywall.
So too back then. Here you can see the interior plaster "panels" which in other rooms still have the colorful fresco artwork visible.

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It seems the inhabitants "kept" pigeons. This room was the pigeon coup and is lined with nesting holes.
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I believe this is looking SouthWest towards the city of Arad. It's what THIS desert really looks like.
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This is a metal casting of Harod's Northern Palace. The Palace was built on three levels, all shadowed from the sun by Masada itself.
The uppermost level was Herods's residence and contained bath houses (cold, lukewarm and hot).
The middle level (160-stairs down) seems to have been a pleasure garden... with pools.
The lowest level most likely was used to house guests of the king and contains the best preserved frescos and mosaics.
It was also at this lowest level that the ONLY human remains (2 men and a woman's hair) were found on Masada.
With that in mind, it may be difficult for some to accept that 1,000 rebels once committed suicide on top of Masada.
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Looking west we can see in the distance (left) the area the Romans built a dam to gather the winter runoff.
Also, the mound (front and center) is where the only other sets of human remains were found. Now identified as Roman soldiers.
The little valley between the road to Arad and some hills to the right is where the Romans got the materials to build the ramp.
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Looking through a "window", we can see the burial dome and the excavation site. The constructed ramp from above.
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I honestly don't know who that is, but she's standing on top of a recreated (see Black Line) "small palace".
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For additional reading about Masada, this is very good! "http://www.netours.com/content/view/133/26/1/0/ "
Ein Gedi
It was getting unbearably hot on top of Masada, so we came down and drove about 6-miles north to Ein Gedi.
Here there is a nature reserve, a kibbutz, a spring water bottler (think: Fiji Water) and some natural springs/waterfalls.
Ein Gedi is known to have a history of at least 6,500 years and is mentioned in the Old Testament often.
Fleeing from King Saul, David hides in the strongholds at Ein Gedi and Saul seeks him
"even upon the most craggy rocks, which are accessible only to wild goats"
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Coming out of the hills above are two streams that flow year round. These "used" to flow into the Dead Sea... a few miles to the east.
But no water still gets that far as it is all now diverted for other purposes.
Within feet of the stream grows lush green vegitation. Any farther away than that and there is nothing but rock and desert.

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Ahhhh, the "wild goats" mentioned by King Saul... the Nubian Ibex.
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Now hovering around the 100°F mark, we make frequent stops for pictures... of everything.
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Including how it looks like this hill is ready to come down at any moment... and all the people it would kill if it did.
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I'm told, in case of winter flood. I think it's in case the hill comes down on us.

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While taking a breather, Rick watched this little guy continuously call out to his friends until he got himself caught up.

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How many ibexes do you see? (HINT: there are more than 7)
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This little guy looks like a guinea pig but is actually a Rock Hyrax. In biblical days (Leviticus) it was thought they chewed their cud.
This deemed them "clean" and permitted Jews to eat them. However, they don't... and Jews now can't.

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Looking back down at the Dead Sea.
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Dead Sea Coastline
Driving north from Ein Gedi, along the Dead Sea (Salt Sea) coast, we stopped to marvel.
Firstly, this is the lowest spot on Earth (430-m/1412' below sea level).
Secondly, it is 34% salt. More than 9.5 times as salty as the oceans
Thirdly, it is 50-Km/31-miles long and up to 15-Km/9-miles wide.
It is fed by the Jordan River (fresh water) and 50-100mm/2-4" annual rainfall. There are NO outlet streams.
Each year it gets smaller, due to evaporation and large-scale irrigation.
Each year the sea's surface is another 1m/3' farther below sea level.
One can "sit" on the sea's surface and read a newspaper.
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There's a man in the water in the picture above.

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Ahava Factory
Because of all the minerals in the Dead Sea, a multibillion dollar "health and beauty" industry has developed.
One of the largest is Ahava ("Love"). They (and many others) "mine" the mud and extract the desired compounds.
This black mud (as shown in left of picture) is also used at local spas for facial and full body masks.
The high concentrations of magnesium, sodium, potassium and calcium claims to treat symptoms of skin disorders
such as psoriasis, eczema and acne. Everything from relaxing one's nerves to promoting blood circulation
(and hair loss prevention) can be "treated" with the Dead Sea black mud.
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The Apple of Sodom. Nasty little thing. Look it up.
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Dead Sea salt sculptures.
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Getting product packaged and ready for the retail shelf.
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Factory sales.
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Qumran Caves
Driving another 12-miles north along the Dead Sea, and just a couple hundred meters/yards off the side of the road,
are the caves in which the Dead Sea Scrolls were found in 1947 by a young Bedouin boy looking for a lost goat.
There are over 240 explored caves in this area... 40 of which contained artifacts.
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These two caves are designated #4a and #4b and account for up to 75% of all scrolls found in the Qumran area.
Entry into any of the local caves is strictly forbidden.

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Lido
Another couple of miles north, where 99.99% of the traffic turns away from the Dead Sea and towards Jerusalem, is the Lido Junction.
There is absolutely nothing special about this intersection and we should have turned west and gone back to Jerusalem.
But, in June 1970, Rick spent a day at the Dead Sea with friends on the Lido Beach.
We then had some snacks and drinks (falafel and beer) at the Jordanian-owned Lido Restaurant.
This was the first opportunity I've had in 47-years to go back and reminisce... so I did.
As you can see, the beach/sea was just a short walk from the restaurant. And one didn't need to be "fit" to walk there.
In fact, when the Lido Restaurant was originally built, the Dead Sea came right up to the restaurant's sea wall.
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This is what's left of the Lido Restaurant. It is rather semi-circular facing the sea. It had some showers and dressing rooms out back.
Remnants of the fire pits and stage area remain. It looks like the military has provided some additional ventilation.
In 1973, a local Israeli artist (Kohavi) painted a mural from one end of its interior to the other.
It's a replica of a Crusader map showing the Jordan River Basin from the Golan Heights to the Red Sea with depictions of cities (current and ancient) in that area.
Of course, graffiti has been added. I'd love it if somebody would document this amazing artwork before it's lost to the elements (and spray paint cans).

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But, things change! I am standing almost exactly where I was sitting on the rail (next to the sign) in the above picture
The beach is now miles away... and, one would now have to be fit to attempt a hike there.
Today, it is much too dangerous to venture across the sand flats because in the past decade sinkholes have started to swallow up those who try.
Besides, military patrols watch this border with Jordan very closely. Across the sea, the almost visible hills are in Jordan.
So, the sign is gone, the restaurant is longer open, the sea has receded, sinkholes spontaneously appear and this is now a patrolled military zone.
See anything else that's changed?

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The End
While visiting, the best handball teams of the land were competing for the national title.
This is NOT American style handball. It's more a cross of soccer, rugby and football, played on a basketball court!
The last night of our visit, the team Sa'ar's coaches won the final best-of series and the National Champonship.
Congratulations, champion!
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The Last Supper.
Now THAT'S a piece of schnitzel!!
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